In Cyprus, a New Spirit Animates the Capital
Europe’s last divided capital, Nicosia, Cyprus, is experiencing a renaissance with more and more venues catering to the artistic set. No longer wary of the demilitarized United Nations Buffer Zone that bisects the ancient walled city between the Greek Cypriot and Turkish Cypriot sides, young Nicosians have reclaimed their old town. Emboldened by falling real estate prices, arty cafes, boutiques celebrating homegrown fashion and buzzy restaurants have opened among the Venetian fortifications and Byzantine churches on the Greek side. While beachgoers have long flocked to the coasts, the rebirth of the inland capital is evidence of a historic city in transition.
AVO’S ARMENIAN FOOD
This cult snack shop has helped revitalize Old Nicosia’s once desolate former fabric district. The formula is simple: A wood-burning stove plus delicious and cheap Armenian street food. Locals line up for freshly baked specialties like lahmajoun — piquant minced meat atop crispy flat bread — and halloumi cheese pies.
22 Onasagorou Street, +357-22661172
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| Ermou 300, a cafe and design showroom, opened last year. |
This unisex boutique focusing on up-and-coming Cypriot and Greek designers opened steps from the ancient Famagusta Gate last December. The owner, Alexia Kirmitsi, set prices that correspond to the country’s grim economic reality: Many of her daringly original garments, like a butterfly-shaped jacket, sell for under 80 euros, or $105 at $1.31 to the euro, while striking accessories like oxidized silver hoops are even more affordable.
44 Ammochostou Street, +357-22317777
ERMOU 300
Patrons of this cafe and design showroom, opened in 2012, gather around courtyard tables resembling flowerpots to sip cocktails like the Ouzografos, which improbably mixes ouzo, lemonade and basil with cubes of local halloumi cheese. The adjacent shop offers such items as traditional painted wood Cypriot chairs with colorful coverings knit by Sylvette Fissentzides, mother of a co-owner.
300 Ermou Street, +357-22349316
7 Kleidia.
Multicolored umbrellas hang overhead at this relaxed cafe in a small pedestrian alley filled with new galleries and shops. A favorite haunt of creative types since it opened in 2011, 7 Kleidia serves Cypriot coffee the traditional way — made in a copper pot over hot sand — along with local wine and spirits.
92E Trikoupi Street, +357-22103857
THE MARKET COMPANY
Numerous restaurant-bars have recently popped up around Onasagorou Street, turning this stretch near the border checkpoint into a happening night-life quarter. The liveliest stop is Market Company, an industrial-chic spot that opened in 2012. Stylish denizens order small plates like prawns flavored with berries and toast at the white-tiled bar until the early morning hours.
8 Pythonos Street, +357-22270504
A version of this article appears in print on December 1, 2013, on page TR10 of the New York edition with the headline: A New Spirit Animates Nicosia’s Old Town.
ERODOS
Cafe Restaurant
+357-22752250
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